
这个洁面产品是皂基体系,健康的皮肤比较油的话可以使用,但这个产品升级过好几次,目前最新版本以月桂酸为主要脂肪酸,刺激性比较大,不太建议大家使用。
您购买的这个曼秀雷敦控油抗痘洁面乳是旧版本,粤G妆网备字2017016796,全成分是这样的:
"水","棕榈酸","椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱","月桂酸","氢氧化钾","肉豆蔻酸","椰油酰谷氨酸钾","丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物","乙二醇二硬脂酸酯","聚季铵盐-39","羟苯甲酯","羟苯丙酯","丁二醇","异硬脂酰乳酰乳酸钠","(日用)香精","乙醇","乳酸钠","PEG-7 甘油椰油酸酯","薄荷醇","油橄榄(OLEA EUROPAEA)果油","甲基异噻唑啉酮","o-伞花烃-5-醇","EDTA 二钠","抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠","生育酚乙酸酯","甘草酸二钾","北美金缕梅(HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA)叶提取物","聚山梨醇酯-20","苯氧乙醇","羟苯乙酯","鳄梨油酸丁酯","绿花恩南番茄(ENANTIA CHLORANTHA)树皮提取物","石竹素","卵磷脂","温州蜜柑(CITRUS UNSHIU)果皮提取物","甘油","山梨酸钾","柠檬酸钠","柠檬酸","生物素","积雪草(CENTELLA ASIATICA)提取物","水解藻胶"
这是一个以棕榈酸为主的皂基体系,大家都知道,皂基的清洁力比较强,所以干性、敏感肌肤就不要用了,男士出油比较多的话还是可以用的。
这个产品升级过多次,全部是皂基体系,我们这里就不一一分析了。
最新版本是备案号为粤G妆网备字2021041716的曼秀雷敦控油抗痘洁面乳,产品图片是这样的:
全成分如下:
"水","月桂酸","棕榈酸","氢氧化钾","椰油酰胺 DEA","椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱","乙二醇二硬脂酸酯","氯化钠","丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物","椰油酰甘氨酸钾","甘油","(日用)香精","水杨酸","苯氧乙醇 ","辛甘醇","薄荷醇","聚季铵盐-63","乙基己基甘油","己二醇","苯甲酸钠","EDTA 二钠","邻伞花烃-5-醇","丁二醇","生育酚乙酸酯","互生叶白千层(MELALEUCA ALTERNIFOLIA)叶油","油橄榄(OLEA EUROPAEA)果油","甘草酸二钾","透明质酸钠","3-邻-乙基抗坏血酸","平铺白珠树(GAULTHERIA PROCUMBENS)叶提取物","鳄梨油酸丁酯","温州蜜柑(CITRUS UNSHIU)果皮提取物","乳酸钠","积雪草(CENTELLA ASIATICA)提取物","水解藻胶","绿花恩南番茄(ENANTIA CHLORANTHA)树皮提取物","北美金缕梅(HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA)叶提取物","山梨酸钾","柠檬酸钠","柠檬酸","石竹素","生物素","羟苯甲酯","羟苯丙酯","生育酚(维生素E) "
这还是一个皂基体系,主要脂肪酸由棕榈酸替换为月桂酸还是感觉有点奇怪的,很少有皂基的主要脂肪酸是用月桂酸,毕竟月桂酸是十二碳,根据前面文章所讲到的(清洁无小事:什么是真正的温和清洁?(下篇-主要表活成分)),十二碳形成的皂基表活刺激性最大。月桂-12碳链,棕榈-16碳链,硬脂-18碳链,椰油-混合碳链,文章[1]、文章[2]中研究,从C8-C16,随着碳链的增长,刺激性会升高,当链长度达到C12时,刺激性最高,当碳链再次增加时,任何进一步的伸长都会导致超过最佳角质层亲和力的亲脂性能,并限制其对蛋白质结构的渗透。且碳链越长,泡沫越小越细腻。
综合看起来 ,曼秀雷敦的这款控油抗痘洁面乳一直是皂基体系,升级之后的产品可能刺激性更大,不推荐。
参考文献:
[1] WILHELM K P. Surfactant-induced stratum corneum hydration in vivo: prediction of the irritation potential of anionic surfactants [J]. J Invest Dermatol, 1994(101): 310-315.
[2] DI NARDO A. In vivo assessment of n‐alkyl‐sulfate‐induced skin irritation by means of non‐invasive methods [J]. Skin Res Technol, 1998(4): 192-195.
